Photos of the Combat des Reines in the Turtmanntal
Discover the timeless allure of the combat des reines in the secluded Turtmanntal through evocative black and white photography. Explore its history, cultural significance, and why monochrome was my deliberate choice to capture these majestic bovine duels.
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Nestled high in the Swiss Alps, the Turtmanntal valley is one of Switzerland’s best‑kept secrets—closed off to traffic in winter, home only to a single family‑run hotel, and connected by a humble minibus linking Oberems to Senntum. Here, each spring brings an age‑old spectacle: the combat des reines, or “queen fights,” where cows from the Val d’Hérens breed test strength and hierarchy.
What Is the Combat des Reines?
Originating in the Valais region centuries ago, the combat des reines pits cows against one another in friendly yet fiercely contested bouts. Rather than mere entertainment, these contests determine the natural pecking order of the herd—ensuring that only the strongest queens lead each pasture. Unlike conventional bullfights, there is no human involvement; the animals lock horns and gently but firmly push until one yields.
A History Rooted in Alpine Tradition
First documented in the 15th century, these contests were used by herders to manage breeding stock and preserve the hardiest traits of the Valais breed. By the 19th century, neighboring hamlets turned these informal skirmishes into seasonal celebrations. Today, the combative gatherings remain tightly woven into regional identity, attracting photographers, agritourists and locals.
Cultural Significance in the Turtmanntal
The Turtmanntal combats stand apart for their intimate scale. With no grandstands or commercial fanfare, spectators perch on alpine meadows under open skies. The surrounding pines and granite ridges form a natural amphitheater—an authentic reminder that nature still reigns supreme here. For local families, these fights reaffirm communal bonds and herald the end of winter’s isolation. As with almost any event in the Valais, even in this relatively remote area there is no shortage of wine and cheese to sustain the crowds during a relatively long day.
Why Black and White Photography?
After reviewing my shots, I felt the combat des reines was portrayed best in monochrome. Here’s why I chose black and white photography for this story:
Timeless Atmosphere: Stripping away color returns us to the valley’s storied past—where medieval herders first watched their queens duke it out.
Textural Emphasis: The deep black hide of the cows is emphasised in black and white and the green of the fields and surrounding forests tended to distract from the scene. Switching to black and white draws the attention more towards the subjects in the frame: the cows and their herders, who are always standing nearby ready to intervene if a third cow decides it wants a piece of the action while two others are duelling.
Personal Reflections on the Turtmanntal
I try to visit the Turtmanntal at least once a year, but even that is not easy. The road into the valley usually opens only in late May, then closes again some time in October. I’ve hiked up to the Turtmannhütte, circled back to the Hollenstein chapel with its fantastic views back down the valley, done an early-morning hike up to the Meidsee, visited the sheep protection dogs with a breeder and now seen a natural “combat des reines”, where locals parked all along the side of the narrow road, even though there is a grass car park only a few hundred metres away (a nice quiet spot for motorhomes and, with clear skies and a new moon, a fantastic spot for stargazing).
Tips for Photographing the Combat des Reines
Arrive Early for Light: My advice for any shoot. Getting there early gets you the best light but also the best parking spots and a chance to scout the location.
Use a Fast Prime Lens or a telephoto: I shot with a 24-70 but a 70-200 or a fixed telephoto would let you get in close (the arena is closed off) and give you amazing shots. The cows dig out holes in the field, which throws up clouds of soil on a dry day, adding an extra touch of drama to your shot.
Capture the Details: From mud‑caked horns to dust rising with each shove, get low or zoom tight to spotlight the grit of the ritual. Try to include the colourful characters of the herders and spectators.
Tripod not necessary: I always have my tripod with me but on this occasion it was more of a hindrance than a help. I even shot handheld on my Mamiya RB67.
Embrace the Monochrome Moment
Beyond mere documentation, my black and white portfolio of the combat des reines invites viewers to witness an alpine tradition in its purest form. No color can replicate the elemental power, the textural richness, or the fleeting sparks of dust and muscle that define these bovine duels.
Whether you’re a culture seeker, an agritourist, or a fellow black and white photography enthusiast, the Turtmanntal’s queen fights offer an unforgettable blend of history, community, and raw natural beauty. Plan to visit between late spring and early summer, pack a sturdy tripod, and prepare to be transported—back in time and deep into the soul of Switzerland’s hidden valleys.
Useful tips
Check the Alpe Rötigen Facebook Page to find out when it’s happening.
Take public transport if you can - it will save you a lot of time compared with driving all the way up from Turtmann to Oberems
Don’t forget to stop by the farm shop to take home some cheese!
